What is an oil cleanser?

An oil-cleanser is essentially a cleanser that is oil-based, used to remove makeup and impurities off the skin.

There’s a lot of ways to make an oil cleanser, but the kind of skincare that I like to make is anhydrous (waterless) and with simple ingredients.

And so from those terms, an oil-cleanser can be made with edible oils, it can be a single type of oil, or it can be a blend of different oils —and include herbal-infused oils and essential oils to add specific plant benefits.

An oil-cleanser can be something that you use to remove makeup… and it can be something that you do to connect with your body, and create wellbeing.

There’s so much to explore with oil-cleansing, but my intention here is to provide key information and a base recipe —so that you can make your own favorite oil-cleanser.

What are the benefits?

Oil cleansing is a restorative approach to cleansing.

Unlike conventional cleansers that can strip the skin barrier, and disrupt balance —when you cleanse your skin with pure, natural oils it restores and replenishes the skin.

Oils are readily absorbed by the skin, and they feed and nourish the phytonutrients —like antioxidants, and fatty acids that our skin readily absorbs. These nutrients build healthier skin, and support the functions of the skin.

• Read: Here’s great research on the effects of putting oils on your skin

I find that my skin feels incredibly clean, but also so much more supple, and soft after oil cleansing.

And I can also amplify these benefits, by using herbal-oil infusions. This becomes something that goes beyond skincare —it’s the most beautiful herbal medicine that feels good and supports health and well-being.

When I look at most skincare products and oil-cleansers in the market, it looks like junk food in my eyes. Using simple ingredients, what you can make at home —is on a whole different level.

• READ: Restorative Approach to Cleansing

Oil cleansing is an effective cleanser, with whole-body benefits.

Oil functions as a cleanser because its able to dissolve other oils and impurities on the skin. This principle is based on “like dissolves like,” which means that the oil in the cleanser can effectively bind to the sebum, makeup, and other oil-based impurities on the skin.

And on a deeper level, oil cleansing supports whole-body wellbeing. When you massage oil onto the skin, it supports the skin barrier and its functions, it soothes the nervous system, and stimulates the channels of flow and circulation.

I feel more vibrant, and grounded when I practice regular oil cleansing.

• READ: I learned a lot about oil cleansing through Ayurvedic perspectives. Absolute Beauty by Pratima Raichur is a great book and resource. She also has a skincare line that I like to study and get inspiration from.

But —technique matters.

Oil is a fantastic skin-cleanser, but requires the right techniques to work effectively.

• Oil cleansers go on dry skin. If you massage oil onto wet skin, the oil and water will emulsify into a lotion and won’t have the same cleansing effect. On dry skin, the oils can grab onto the dirt and debris on the skin. As you massage, you can sometimes feel gunk begin to ball up under your fingertips.

• Use circular motions to loosen product buildup, dirt and debris —focusing on areas where you experience congestion.

• Use stroking motions along the lymphatic channels and the entire body to improve circulation.

• Remove the oil with a soft cloth. Water alone won’t work, you need the friction of the cloth to lift and remove the excess oils. Your skin will feel clean —soft and supple too.
  
  To make sure that you effectively removed the oil (trapping dirt and bacteria) off of the skin, saturate a cotton pad with hydrosol, or a toner -and look to see that it’s clean when you swipe your skin.
  
  TIP: Make (or purchase) a Hydrosol that supports the needs of the skin. For example:
  • If you are oil-cleansing and focusing on clearing your skin from breakouts, you might use a lavender hydrosol for its actions on acne-causing bacteria.
  • If you are oil-cleansing and focusing on calming red, sensitive skin, you might use a chamomile Hydrosol for its anti-inflammatory actions.
  • … You can get very specific with what your needs are, and the plant that supports it.
    
    The combination of oil + water herbal skincare together is just amazing!!

Choosing Oils & Making Blends

From my learnings into the world of oils, studying the work of skincare makers I admire, and teaching hundreds of students over the years (teaching accelerates my learning), here’s what I offer:

The key to understanding how an oil will act and feel on the skin, is to look at the Fatty Acid Content

• Fatty acids are compounds found in fats and oils. They are key components of lipids in our bodies and in the food we eat.
• Fatty acids contribute to the viscosity of an oil —how thin and thick it is. How quickly or slowly it absorbs into the skin.
• And fatty acids contribute to the health of the skin. The skin needs a balance of different fatty acids, because they perform different functions.

Making an oil-cleanser based on its fatty acid content

There’s something like 50+ different types of fatty acids, each one contributes different qualities…

In general, there are two main types of fatty acids that you want to look at:

Oleic Fatty Acid and Linoleic Fatty Acids

• Oils high in linoleic fatty acids are lightweight and fast-absorbing.
  • They have more soothing and restorative qualities.
  • Best for oily/congested skin, and conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis
  • Often have a shorter shelf life
  • Examples include:
    Grapeseed Oil
    Safflower Oil
    Sunflower Oil
    Evening Primrose
    Hemp
    and so many more….

An oil cleanser needs to be rich enough to work on the surface of the skin, to thoroughly cleanse and loosen up makeup, and dirt and oils.

If it’s too lightweight and fast-absorbing, you’re not going to get the cleansing action you’re looking for.

For me personally, I enjoy having even balance of both oleic and linoleic fatty acids. It’s feels good on the skin, loosens up makeup and debris, it’s also able to absorb deeper into the pores to clear out congestion.

Making an Oil-Cleanser based on fatty acid ratios

Single oils: Some oils naturally have your ideal balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids —and you can use the oil on its own.

Blend of oils: Sometimes you’ll want to blend different oils together to achieve the balance that you’re looking for.

• A general, good oil-cleanser for all skin types:
  • Choose a single oil that has an even(ish) balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids.
  • Or make a 1:1 blend of oleic-rich and linoleic-rich oils
  • For example: sesame oil has a balanced ratio, and if often used on its own
  • Or, you could do a blend of: 1 part almond oil + 1 part grapeseed oil (for example) to achieve that balanced ratio.

• To help with dry skin imbalances:
  • Choose a single oil that has a slightly higher amount of oleic fatty acid
  • Or make a blend, with more oleic-rich oils
  • For example: 2 parts almond oil + 1 part grapeseed oil

• To help with oily skin imbalances:
  • Choose a single oil that has a slightly higher amount of linoleic fatty acids
  • Or make a blend, with more linoleic-rich oils
  • For example: 1 part almond oil + 2 parts grapeseed oil
  • Note: If the oil is too light and fast absorbing absorbs too quickly, it won’t be as effective in terms of cleansing. You have to play with your blends and try!

Oil-Cleanser: Base Recipe and Process

Base Recipe: Oil-Cleanser

• 100% | Oil of choice. Can be a single oil, a blend of oils, and/or herbal-infused oil

PROCESS:

1. Prepare: I find that it’s helpful to start by first choosing the bottle (and specifically the bottle size) that you want to store your oil-cleanser in. Because the size of the bottle determines the recipe amount at you are making.
   
   I like to use a bottle with a spray-pump for my cleansing oils because it’s less messy for me than pouring out the oils into my hands and massaging them on. And with a spray-pump, you don’t have to open the bottle continuously, and risk exposing the oils to the air, and moisture or anything.
   
2. Create your formula: Choose the oil(s) that you want to use. If you are blending oils to create a specific balance —work that out first.
   
   This part takes experimentation, trial and error to land on the blend and ratio that is your favorite. I recommend small batches when you’re starting!
   
   Once you have your bottles, your oils, and your blend —you’re ready to start making!!
   
3. Make the recipe: Sanitize the bottle with rubbing alcohol and make sure it’s fully dry. Always use a new spray or pump head. You can re-use bottles, but don’t re-use spray heads, because they’re nearly impossible to properly clean and sanitize.
   
   Fill your bottle with the oil(s)
   
   Label the bottle so that you remember what it is. And put the use-by date!
   
4. Storage: Store Cleansing-Oil in a dry, cool area, away from the shower and sink. You do not need to refrigerate, but make sure it’s not exposed to moisture.
   
5. Shelf life: Depends on the oils that you are using. Follow the use by date of the oils. In general, I think it’s a good idea to use your DIY Cleansing-Oil within 3 months.

Example Recipe: Papaya Oil Cleanser

This recipe is my personal favorite blend of oils, jojoba and papaya seed.

Jojoba is a great base oil, for all skin types, and skin conditions. It very closely resembles our own skin’s natural sebum. In terms of “blending by fatty acids”… jojoba oil is an exception —it doesn’t quite work the same because it’s technically a wax.

I find that jojoba oil on its own works well for oil-cleansing, but I don’t enjoy the skin-feel. It’s a bit too thin… But, when you infuse jojoba with herbs, it enriches the oil, and has more substance to it.

For my herbal-infusion: I always choose herbs that match my current needs. Right now, in the heat of summertime, and with all of my gardening activities —I chose Tulsi for its incredible (oil-soluble) antioxidant content that protects from free-radical damage.

Jojoba oil is an astringent oil (it has a drawing action like castor, but not as strong) and tulsi is an astringent herb. The combination is great for oily-prone, acne-prone skin….

But my skin is more prone to dryness. So I add balance with an oleic fatty acid rich oil to boost moisturization.

I chose papaya seed oil —for a bunch of reasons. Papaya seed oil is rich in oleic fatty acids: at around 70%. It feels so rich and luxurious on the skin. And it adds wonderful qualities: papaya seed oil contains “papain” which is a natural chemical exfoliant that breaks down dead-skin cells, and encourages cellular turnover. It gives skin a glow and vibrancy. And it smells….AMAZING! It’s naturally fruity and flowery. It’s my favorite!

Hope you feel inspired to have a go, and blend up your own personal favorite oil-cleanser!