Make this cayenne salve for pain relief. It’s like a heat pack in a jar!
A cayenne salve is not subtle! It’s fiery!
When you apply it on, you quickly start to feel its effect… prickly tingles on your skin, a warmth building up in your tissues, and ultimately a release of tension and pain.
Cayenne salves have long been used for all sorts of body pain —from sciatica, to lower back aches, post-surgery pain, muscle aches, headaches, menstrual cramps and arthritic pain (ref)
How does it work?
Cayenne works in several ways —it has antispasmodic properties that helps to relieve cramping. It’s anti-inflammatory and a circulatory stimulant —bringing blood to surface area and helping to release tension.
But what sets it apart from other herbs used topically for pain relief —is its specific effect on the nerves.
Cayenne works directly on the area where it’s applied —it desensitize the nerves, and reduces pain signals from reaching the brain. (Ref)
The active, pain-relieving compound is called capsaicin.
It’s an oil-soluble compound, which is why it works so well in an oil-based preparation, like a salve.
Capsaicin is what gives chili peppers its spiciness… the spicier the pepper, the more capsaicin it contains.
The most common pepper that’s used for making pain salves is Cayenne pepper, capsicum annum.
My intention was to get fresh cayenne peppers, and dehydrate them at home. When I can, I love starting with fresh ingredients and dehydrating them myself.
But, interestingly, I wasn’t able to find fresh cayenne peppers in supermarkets. There’s a lot of jalapeño, habanero, poblano… all with varying degrees of heat… but no cayenne.
So, I ended up buying cayenne powder to make this salve (which is what most people use) and it works perfectly well.
I also bought a packet of Carolina Cayenne seedsso that I can grow my own to harvest and dehydrate for next time.
Can you add other ingredients?
I see a lot of salves made with cayenne + ginger and/or turmeric… adding more anti-inflammatory, warming properties. For me, cayenne alone is pretty powerful —so for my salve, I decided to keep it simple. But you can definitely experiment and see what works best for you.
You can also add menthol crystals to get an immediate icy+heat effect. Menthol crystals are usually added at 2% in topical formulations. But if you look at the ingredients in Tiger Balm, they use 10% and I’ve read accounts from people who find it more effective at that higher range.
And of course, you can definitely add essential oils. Common oils used for pain are Sweet Marjoram, Frankincense, Rosemary… Personally, to compliment he heatiness of cayenne, I would combine peppermint essential + lavender essential oil for their soothing, cooling effect.. Peppermint has menthol, and lavender is often used for headaches This brand of essential oil is reputable and good.
How do you use it?
Carefully! Cayenne salves are spicy and bright orange. You don’t wan to apply it over sensitive areas, or get it on your white bed sheets. Wash your hands after application.
Cayenne salves give you an immediate sensory experience of deep warmth, which feels really good. And with continued use, you may start to feel its pain-reduction effects.
Apply it directly over the area that hurts, 4x per day for 2-4 weeks.
Especially if you’re treating chronic pain you’ll want to use it consistently “to achieve significant benefit” (ref) in pain reduction.
And as far as the oil, my oil of choice right now is Avocado oil. It’s a neutral oil in terms of aroma. And I love the way it feels on the skin, it soaks in nicely and leaves a velvety-soft finish.
Let me know, have you tried a cayenne salve? For me, it feels like putting on a heat pack. I love it and I hope you do too.
Cayenne Salve – Heat Rub
Let’s make a 100g sample-size and see how it works for you!
Add 20 grams cayenne powder and 100 grams avocado oil into a glass mason jar. Stir well to combine.
Close the lid and place the jar in your box dehydrator, and set to 110° for 72 hours (This is my favorite method for infusing —use your preferred method)
Once the infusion is done, strain out the cayenne powder. I find it’s easy using a fine mesh strainer. This is the one I use.
Cayenne-infused oil will keep for 1 year stored in a dark, dry space. The recipe below makes a 2 oz jar of salve —you’ll have some left over cayenne oil, to make more salves with (or to cook with!)
Heat up a pot of water to simmering. Place a heat-proof bowl in the water, careful to not let water get into the bowl.
Add the beeswax to the bowl. As soon as it melts, pour in the avocado oil and stir until everything is fully melted and well combined.
Remove the bowl from the water, and wipe down the sides and bottom with a towel to make sure no water-droplets gets into your salve as you pour.
Pour the melted salve into a 4 oz container (or several smaller one)
Leave it on the counter to cool, with the lid off (to make sure no condensation builds up inside)
Notes:
If the salve comes out too hard/firm for your liking —you can remelt the whole thing, add a little more oil and reset.
If you’re adding essential oils —only add them in after you’ve removed the bowl from the heat. Essential oils are very sensitive to heat. Let the salve cool slightly, continually stirring and then add in the essential oils.
If you’re adding menthol crystals —melt them in with the beeswax.
If the % and ratios don’t yet make sense to you, if you’re new into making herbal skincare —sign up for my newsletter. I’ll share upcoming classes, where we can where we can go deeper into the world of making herbal skincare.
How I prepare fresh citrus rinds for making herbal skincare
Citrus is often added to skincare products —for the benefits of vitamin C.
But, not only is Vitamin C famously unstable (degrades quickly when exposed to oxygen)… it’s also a water-soluble vitamin, which we can’t access in anhydrous skincare.
So, when I use citrus in a skincare recipe —it’s mostly for the benefits of the essential oils.
Citrus rinds infuse into oil really well —it captures the sweet aroma, and therapeutic benefits of the essential oils. And some oil-soluble antioxidants too!
Gathering fresh citrus rinds
You can collect and dry citrus rinds every time you eat an orange, or make lemon honey tea…
…but what works really well for me is to buy a bag of organic citrus, and process it all at once. You’ll get a pitcher of fresh juice out of it and enough rinds to make a beautiful batch of citrus-infused oil!
The reason I say organic, is because citrus fruit is treated with a wax and fungicide coating that we don’t want.
If you’re at the supermarket and see organic citrus on sale —buy it!
Blood orange and pink grapefruit are my favorites. Blood orange has an unusual citrus scent.
And grapefruit is so energizing for the body, it clears stagnation, breaks up sluggish conditions —it moves circulation, and lymph.
What’s also so good —is the combination of lime and frankincense. You can infuse dried lime rinds and frankincense tears into oil, creating the perfect morning body oil to start the day with. It’s uplifting, protective, which feels really good.
Drying citrus rinds
If you plan to use the rinds both for making skincare and food —then you’ll want to remove the white pith, for better flavor.
If you’re only using it to make skincare —you can leave it on. Our skin won’t taste the difference, and the pith contains skin-beneficial flavonoids, some of which are oil-soluble as well…
Peel off all of the rinds, and cut them to lay as flat and even as possible on a dehydrator tray and set it to 100° F for about 2-4 hours (depends on how thin you sliced it)
Store dried citrus rinds in a mason jar, it should keep for 1 year if stored properly, away from light, and moisture. Or, in a freezer bag —the freezer is a great place to store dehydrated/dry goods!
Do I need a dehydrator? Drying fresh ingredients at a low temperature (95-150° F) will produce a higher quality ingredient. Ovens can’t go this low, and so I don’t recommend it.
With a dehydrator, you’ll get brighter, more aromatic, more potent ingredients for your herbal skincare recipes.
If you’re looking to purchase one —I recommend a box dehydrator, because you can remove the trays to fit larger items inside, like a jar, and use it to make oil infusions as well!
How I prepare fresh ginger for making herbal skincare
Ginger’s key active ingredients responsible for its warming, restorative actions —are mostly oil-soluble.
Which makes ginger root especially good for infusing into oil.
When you make infused oil from scratch, starting with fresh ginger root —it creates such an aromatic, potent oil that you can feel working when you apply it onto your skin.
Ginger-infused oil can be used directly on the skin as a body oil, added to baths/foot baths, and used to make balms & salves, body scrubs, and any skincare recipe that calls oil.
My favorite way to use ginger-infused oil is to make a night-time balm, especially when it’s cold… to rub all over my legs and feet. Put socks on top, and the ginger feels so warming, moves blood and lymph, and keeps you feeling cozy!
Note: Ginger’s key actives are also soluble in alcohol and glycerine. Personally, I haven’t prepared ginger in this way for making skincare. If you do, you won’t need to dry it first, you can use fresh ginger to infuse it into alcohol/and or glycerine.
Here is an example of ginger root extract made for cosmetic use —which is simply ginger root infused into glycerine. It’s interesting to see how it’s used, at what usage rate etc…
Process
To infuse ginger into oil, you want to dehydrate it first to remove its water content. Once dried, you can also powder it to make ginger powder which I have used for making bath bombs and bath salts. (and of course for cooking!!)
You don’t need to peel ginger. In fact, this study found that unpeeled ginger contained higher amounts of gingerol (the key active ingredient) than peeled ginger. Read Study
Slice the ginger root as thinly and consistently as you can, so that all the pieces dehydrate evenly. I’ve seed people recommend grating it, but I find that it looses a lot of its juice this way, and comes out too fibrous.
Lay the pieces flat in your dehydrator and set to 120° F for about 2-4 hours (depends on how thin you sliced it)
Note: The earlier study, found that drying ginger at 120° F was the second best method for preserving the active ingredient, gingerol. The first best being freeze-drying.
Another study revealed that a higher heat (150° F) transforms gingerol into shogaol, a compound with a spicier taste and stronger circulatory-stimulating effects. If you want a more potent, more active ingredient -you might try drying it at a higher temperature.
Ultimately I am a home herbalist, not a lab chemist… my goal isn’t specific measures (I can’t really know) but I like to know I’m using techniques to produce higher quality ingredients.
Store dried ginger pieces in a mason jar, it should keep for 1 year if stored properly, away from light, and moisture. Powdered ginger keeps for 6 months. You can also store it in a freezer bag —the freezer is a great place to store dehydrated/dry goods!
Do I need a dehydrator? Drying fresh ingredients at a low temperature (95° – 150° F) will produce a higher quality ingredient. Ovens can’t go this low, and so I don’t recommend it.
With a dehydrator, you’ll get brighter, more aromatic, more potent ingredients for your herbal skincare recipes.
If you’re looking to purchase one —I recommend a box dehydrator, because you can remove the trays to fit larger items inside, like a jar, and use it to make oil infusions as well!
A base recipe is meant to be customized. It’s the foundation of what will become your favorite oil-cleanser.
Here I’m sharing what’s been for me, the key information needed to make a good oil-cleanser —a base recipe to start with and a recipe for my personal favorite oil-cleanser: Papaya Cleanse.
Make your favorite skincare with whole food ingredients and kitchen techniques —enjoy and feel good!
An oil-cleanser is essentially a cleanser that is oil-based, used to remove makeup and impurities off the skin.
There’s a lot of ways to make an oil cleanser, but the kind of skincare that I like to make is anhydrous (waterless) and with simple ingredients.
And so from those terms, an oil-cleanser can be made with edible oils, it can be a single type of oil, or it can be a blend of different oils —and include herbal-infused oils and essential oils to add specific plant benefits.
An oil-cleanser can be something that you use to remove makeup… and it can be something that you do to connect with your body, and create wellbeing.
There’s so much to explore with oil-cleansing, but my intention here is to provide key information and a base recipe —so that you can make your own favorite oil-cleanser.
What are the benefits?
Oil cleansing is a restorative approach to cleansing.
Unlike conventional cleansers that can strip the skin barrier, and disrupt balance —when you cleanse your skin with pure, natural oils it restores and replenishes the skin.
Oils are readily absorbed by the skin, and they feed and nourish the phytonutrients —like antioxidants, and fatty acids that our skin readily absorbs. These nutrients build healthier skin, and support the functions of the skin.
I find that my skin feels incredibly clean, but also so much more supple, and soft after oil cleansing.
And I can also amplify these benefits, by using herbal-oil infusions. This becomes something that goes beyond skincare —it’s the most beautiful herbal medicine that feels good and supports health and well-being.
When I look at most skincare products and oil-cleansers in the market, it looks like junk food in my eyes. Using simple ingredients, what you can make at home —is on a whole different level.
Oil cleansing is an effective cleanser, with whole-body benefits.
Oil functions as a cleanser because its able to dissolve other oils and impurities on the skin. This principle is based on “like dissolves like,” which means that the oil in the cleanser can effectively bind to the sebum, makeup, and other oil-based impurities on the skin.
And on a deeper level, oil cleansing supports whole-body wellbeing. When you massage oil onto the skin, it supports the skin barrier and its functions, it soothes the nervous system, and stimulates the channels of flow and circulation.
I feel more vibrant, and grounded when I practice regular oil cleansing.
READ: I learned a lot about oil cleansing through Ayurvedic perspectives. Absolute Beauty by Pratima Raichur is a great book and resource. She also has a skincare line that I like to study and get inspiration from.
But —technique matters.
Oil is a fantastic skin-cleanser, but requires the right techniques to work effectively.
Oil cleansers go on dry skin. If you massage oil onto wet skin, the oil and water will emulsify into a lotion and won’t have the same cleansing effect. On dry skin, the oils can grab onto the dirt and debris on the skin. As you massage, you can sometimes feel gunk begin to ball up under your fingertips.
Use circular motions to loosen product buildup, dirt and debris —focusing on areas where you experience congestion.
Use stroking motions along the lymphatic channels and the entire body to improve circulation.
Remove the oil with a soft cloth. Water alone won’t work, you need the friction of the cloth to lift and remove the excess oils. Your skin will feel clean —soft and supple too.
To make sure that you effectively removed the oil (trapping dirt and bacteria) off of the skin, saturate a cotton pad with hydrosol, or a toner -and look to see that it’s clean when you swipe your skin.
TIP: Make (or purchase) a Hydrosol that supports the needs of the skin. For example:
If you are oil-cleansing and focusing on clearing your skin from breakouts, you might use a lavender hydrosol for its actions on acne-causing bacteria.
If you are oil-cleansing and focusing on calming red, sensitive skin, you might use a chamomile Hydrosol for its anti-inflammatory actions.
… You can get very specific with what your needs are, and the plant that supports it.
The combination of oil + water herbal skincare together is just amazing!!
Choosing Oils & Making Blends
From my learnings into the world of oils, studying the work of skincare makers I admire, and teaching hundreds of students over the years (teaching accelerates my learning), here’s what I offer:
The key to understanding how an oil will act and feel on the skin, is to look at the Fatty Acid Content
Fatty acids are compounds found in fats and oils. They are key components of lipids in our bodies and in the food we eat.
Fatty acids contribute to the viscosity of an oil —how thin and thick it is. How quickly or slowly it absorbs into the skin.
And fatty acids contribute to the health of the skin. The skin needs a balance of different fatty acids, because they perform different functions.
Making an oil-cleanser based on its fatty acid content
There’s something like 50+ different types of fatty acids, each one contributes different qualities…
In general, there are two main types of fatty acids that you want to look at:
Oleic Fatty Acid and Linoleic Fatty Acids
Oils high in linoleic fatty acids are lightweight and fast-absorbing.
They have more soothing and restorative qualities.
Best for oily/congested skin, and conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis
Often have a shorter shelf life
Examples include: Grapeseed Oil Safflower Oil Sunflower Oil Evening Primrose Hemp and so many more….
Oils rich in oleic fatty acids are heavier and slower-absorbing.
They tend to have more protective qualities, and help to maintain suppleness.
Best for thinning skin or drier skin conditions.
Often have a longer shelf life
Examples include: Almond Apricot kernel Avocado Macadamia Nut Olive and so many more…
NOTE: supermarket oils might have different compositions than cosmetic oils. For example, often times supermarket sunflower oil is high-oleic, but cosmetic sunflower oil can be high-linloeic. If you want to be sure, purchase from suppliers that list the fatty acid content. Otherwise, you can apply the oil to your own skin and get a sense of how quickly/slowly it absorbs, how thick/thin it feels…
READ: Power of the Seed. This is a great book and resource to explore oils by their fatty acids. I use it often when I’m picking oils and making blends.
The ideal balance for skin cleansing purposes:
An oil cleanser needs to be rich enough to work on the surface of the skin, to thoroughly cleanse and loosen up makeup, and dirt and oils.
If it’s too lightweight and fast-absorbing, you’re not going to get the cleansing action you’re looking for.
For me personally, I enjoy having even balance of both oleic and linoleic fatty acids. It’s feels good on the skin, loosens up makeup and debris, it’s also able to absorb deeper into the pores to clear out congestion.
Making an Oil-Cleanserbased on fatty acid ratios
Single oils: Some oils naturally have your ideal balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids —and you can use the oil on its own.
Blend of oils: Sometimes you’ll want to blend different oils together to achieve the balance that you’re looking for.
A general, good oil-cleanser for all skin types:
Choose a single oil that has an even(ish) balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids.
Or make a 1:1 blend of oleic-rich and linoleic-rich oils
For example: sesame oil has a balanced ratio, and if often used on its own
Or, you could do a blend of: 1 part almond oil + 1 part grapeseed oil (for example) to achieve that balanced ratio.
To help with dry skin imbalances:
Choose a single oil that has a slightly higher amount of oleic fatty acid
Or make a blend, with more oleic-rich oils
For example: 2 parts almond oil + 1 part grapeseed oil
To help with oily skin imbalances:
Choose a single oil that has a slightly higher amount of linoleic fatty acids
Or make a blend, with more linoleic-rich oils
For example: 1 part almond oil + 2 parts grapeseed oil
Note: If the oil is too light and fast absorbing absorbs too quickly, it won’t be as effective in terms of cleansing. You have to play with your blends and try!
Oil-Cleanser: Base Recipe and Process
Base Recipe: Oil-Cleanser
100% | Oil of choice. Can be a single oil, a blend of oils, and/or herbal-infused oil
PROCESS:
Prepare: I find that it’s helpful to start by first choosing the bottle (and specifically the bottle size) that you want to store your oil-cleanser in. Because the size of the bottle determines the recipe amount at you are making.
I like to use a bottle with a spray-pump for my cleansing oils because it’s less messy for me than pouring out the oils into my hands and massaging them on. And with a spray-pump, you don’t have to open the bottle continuously, and risk exposing the oils to the air, and moisture or anything.
Create your formula: Choose the oil(s) that you want to use. If you are blending oils to create a specific balance —work that out first.
This part takes experimentation, trial and error to land on the blend and ratio that is your favorite. I recommend small batches when you’re starting!
Once you have your bottles, your oils, and your blend —you’re ready to start making!!
Make the recipe: Sanitize the bottle with rubbing alcohol and make sure it’s fully dry. Always use a new spray or pump head. You can re-use bottles, but don’t re-use spray heads, because they’re nearly impossible to properly clean and sanitize.
Fill your bottle with the oil(s)
Label the bottle so that you remember what it is. And put the use-by date!
Storage: Store Cleansing-Oil in a dry, cool area, away from the shower and sink. You do not need to refrigerate, but make sure it’s not exposed to moisture.
Shelf life: Depends on the oils that you are using. Follow the use by date of the oils. In general, I think it’s a good idea to use your DIY Cleansing-Oil within 3 months.
Example Recipe: Papaya Oil Cleanser
This recipe is my personal favorite blend of oils, jojoba and papaya seed.
Jojoba is a great base oil, for all skin types, and skin conditions. It very closely resembles our own skin’s natural sebum. In terms of “blending by fatty acids”… jojoba oil is an exception —it doesn’t quite work the same because it’s technically a wax.
I find that jojoba oil on its own works well for oil-cleansing, but I don’t enjoy the skin-feel. It’s a bit too thin… But, when you infuse jojoba with herbs, it enriches the oil, and has more substance to it.
For my herbal-infusion: I always choose herbs that match my current needs. Right now, in the heat of summertime, and with all of my gardening activities —I chose Tulsi for its incredible (oil-soluble) antioxidant content that protects from free-radical damage.
Jojoba oil is an astringent oil (it has a drawing action like castor, but not as strong) and tulsi is an astringent herb. The combination is great for oily-prone, acne-prone skin….
But my skin is more prone to dryness. So I add balance with an oleic fatty acid rich oil to boost moisturization.
I chose papaya seed oil —for a bunch of reasons. Papaya seed oil is rich in oleic fatty acids: at around 70%. It feels so rich and luxurious on the skin. And it adds wonderful qualities: papaya seed oil contains “papain” which is a natural chemical exfoliant that breaks down dead-skin cells, and encourages cellular turnover. It gives skin a glow and vibrancy. And it smells….AMAZING! It’s naturally fruity and flowery. It’s my favorite!
My Personal Favorite: Papaya OIl-Cleanser
Recipe size: 100g —fits in a 4oz bottle
70g | 70% | Tulsi-infused Jojoba Oil
30g | 30% | Papaya Seed Oil
Hope you feel inspired to have a go, and blend up your own personal favorite oil-cleanser!
Balms and salves are old, traditional household remedies. They’re so useful and effective, you’ll find some sort of balm or salve in most homes today. And they’re simple to make!
Here on this page, I’ll share the base recipe to make a balm and salve, and helpful information to help you make exactly what you’re looking for.
Before we dive into making, let’s connect on the terms and differences between a balm and salve.
Definition and Differences
Balms and salves are semi-solid ointments applied directly onto the skin.
Both are made from the same base ingredients, oil and wax, but the ratio of oil-to-wax is different.
Balms contain more wax. It’s firmer, more solid in texture. It’s more of an occlusive, which means it sits on the skin, absorbs slowly or not at all. Balms create a barrier over the skin that helps to seal in hydration, and protect from environmental stressors.
Balms are best for moisturizing protection
Salves contain less wax. It’s lighter, more spreadable in texture. It is more of an emollient, which means it absorbs into the skin.
Salves are best for deeper and quicker healing, and for treating specific skin conditions.
Ingredients
Balm:
75%
Oil
25%
Wax
Salve:
80%
Oil
20%
Wax
Process
Adjust the percentage amounts to the size of your container, in terms of the amount of product that you want to make.
For example, to make a 4oz amount of balm the recipe would be: (75% of 4oz) oil + (25% of 4oz) wax
Combine oil and wax together in a heat-safe container. For your setup, try using a metal bowl that can sit perfectly over a pot of simmering water.
Leave it over simmering water, stirring well, until the beeswax melts into the oil.
As soon as all of the beeswax has melted, take it off the heat and quickly pour into your container.
Leave it to sit on the counter, with the lid off, to fully cool and harden.
Customization tips
You can use the base recipe as is – it’s something you can use all over, to help keep your skin soft and moisturized. It’s a good barrier-ointment to cover and protect the skin.
And you modify the recipe with ingredients that provide any specific benefits you’re looking for.
Here are some helpful tips to create a remedy for your exact needs and wants:
Essential Oils: Add essential oils just at the end, when you’re about to remove the mixture from the heat. *Usage rate: Here is a great safety guide to follow for using essential oils: Robert Tisserand Dilution Chart
Herbs: Use herbal infused oil to provide specific benefits and functions for the skin, the nervous system, circulatory system, lymphatic system, and muscular/skeletal system. *Usage rate: Replace up to full amount of oil with herbal oil.
Colloidal oats: FDA approved skin-protective ingredient, that helps to soothe irritations, rashes, eczema and the like. *Usage rate: Add 2% into you recipe, any more than that, and the product starts to feel a bit gritty.
Butters (solid fat): Replace any part of the oil portion with butter, to give your product more creaminess and structure – and more protective qualities to your skin. Butters act as an occlusive, which means it doesn’t penetrate the skin quickly (or at all). Butters form a physical barrier of protection over the skin. Shea, mango, cocoa butter are all popular butters used in balms and salves. Different butters provide different benefits and act differently on the skin. Experiment with different types of butters, and at different ratios, to get the feel that you prefer.
Usage rate: There is no maximum amount, but the more butter you add, the harder/firmer the product becomes and the more occlusive on the skin. As a starting point, try adding around 20-40% butter, and adjust your recipe from there to get the feel that you’re looking for.
Tip when using butter: Butters are often responsible for causing crystallization or graininess to happen. To prevent this, leave the mixture melting over heat for 30-minutes and set it in the refrigerator to cool quickly.
Mica: Add a fun sparkle, or cosmetic color. You can make, for example, a colored balm for your lips, or glittery balm for your body. When sourcing micas, use synthetic or search for a brand that offers ethically sourced mica (there are humanitarian issues with how natural mica is mined) *Usage rate: The amount depends on how intense you want the color to be. Try adding 5% mica as a starting point
Clean fragrance oils: You can make a perfume balm using cosmetic oils for fragrance. Look for “clean” fragrance oils that are free from the known irritants like phlatales and parabens. I’m very sensitive to fragrance, but I can tolerate and enjoy clean fragrance oils (I really like to add fragrance oils to my haircare especially!) *Usage rate: Usually around 1-3%. Follow the usage rate of the specific oil you are using.
Vitamin E: Helps to stabilize the oil, and prevent your product from going rancid, especially good when using oils that have a shorter shelf life, like hemp oil for example. Add it in as part of the oil portion. *Usage rate: 0.5-1%
I thought it would be fun to share the botanicals that I’ve been especially interested in lately, when it comes to making DIY skincare.
I’d love to know, what’s been on your radar at the moment?
GOLDENROD
I moved to North Carolina at the start of goldenrod season. It grows like a weed here, and it blew my mind to see the outdoors lit up with the brightest color yellow.
Back in herbal school, I was taught about goldenrod, mostly as an anti-allergen remedy. Especially when you have a runny nose. You can infuse the flowers and petals into brandy or vinegar, and take it throughout allergy season.
But, for me, my special interest is in how herbs are used topically. I had never seen goldenrod in a skincare recipe – or heard it talked about as a skincare plant.
And so I spent that first summer and fall immersed in researching all about goldenrod, wanting to know if we can use it topically? Are there any benefits?
I’m always amazed to learn all the ways that herbs are used topically! From my research notes:
“Goldenrod’s Latin name, Solidago, means “to make whole”
It has a tonic action on the protective membrane linings, the skin and mucosa— strengthening the physical barriers that keep irritants/pathogens/allergens out.
It’s a slow healer because it builds health. So, unlike for example plantain which is used for acute conditions (cuts and grazes)— Goldenrod is most often used for chronic conditions (eczema, psoriasis, acne…)
Goldenrod used regularly can have a drying effect on the skin, especially if you have a dry constitution. Use moistening herbs to create balance.
As a treatment for skin: Skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis, hives, candida, allergic rash) where allergens or pathogens are at the root cause.
Goldenrod contains an antioxidant that act as an antihistamine (Quercetin)
Historically, goldenrod was used topically to treat wounds and to prevent infection.
Native Americans chewed on goldenrod to ease toothaches.
Pine
If I had to choose – the one herb/plant that I have the strongest affinity for – it’s pine. The resin for healing, but the whole tree gives me a feeling of wellbeing.
I remember watching a documentary about a family that experienced homelessness. They shared how they would tent specifically under a big pine tree because they felt safe. Generally there were less bugs, it provided good shade and protection. And its interesting because in the herbal world, pine trees are known for protective qualities.
The whole category of renisous tress, have this same protective quality – juniper, cypress, spruce, balsam, frankincense… I love them all!
With pine, the needles are rich in vitamin c, you can make a tea to drink through the winter season. The tree produces an aromatic resin, which is protective for the skin. It’s actually as a “bandaid” to treat cuts and scrapes.
Moving to North Carolina, I love being surrounded by pine trees. I love walking along trails and I will stop at almost every pine tree and circle around it, with my hand on the tree, looking for pieces of resin.
Resin oil is shockingly easy to make, once you learn the methods. And it’s an amazing oil to have on hand, for aches, inflammation (arthritis),
Grains
It’s no secret that oats are my #1 favorite DIY skincare ingredient. I teach a whole class just on oats for skin! But it’s the whole category of grains that I’m excited about.
Grains are used in skincare as a physical exfoliant and skin cleanser. They’re more gentle on the skin (than say, salt or sugar) which is why grains are often used specifically for the face.
I learned a lot of my skincare making skills (and philosophy) while living in Bali, and we used grains not only for the face, but for the whole body.
When you buff your skin with grains, you come out of the shower feeling soft and plump and so incredibly good. My favorite way to wash off any build-up that I’m carrying (physical, emotional) is to make a grain cleanser, get in the shower and scrub from head to toe!
This is a great recipe, made with grains: https://littlegreendot.com/regenerative-cleansing-oat-goat/
Floral Water
Floral water is a hydrosol, which is made from distilling plant materials. It’s aromatic, and amazing for the skin, for the nervous system – it’s aromatherapy and therapeutic because it contains the aromatic compounds, and water-soluble nutrients of the plant.
You can make hydrosols in your kitchen. Its a whole process – like making sour-dough bread or something. But it’s so great to make when you can!
Here in Chapel Hill, there’s a Mediterranean Deli that sells bottles of rose and orange bitters floral water. It’s for cooking with, but it’s also makes the best DIY skincare ingredient. It’s aromatic and it smells like a bouquet of fresh roses.
And it’s only $3.
You can pour it into a bath. Use it as a hair mist. Or when your skin feels hot and red, a spritz of rose water can help to cool and calm it down.
Herbalism is growing FAST – in just the last couple of years, we’ve seen old-traditions making a big comeback as more people turn to herbs to improve their physical and mental wellbeing.
If you’re wanting to start a new herbal routine, or reignite an old one – I’m here to help you make wellness feel more accessible… And by that I mean, accessible in cost, in the availability of the ingredients, and in effort!
Here are some tips that you might find helpful.
3 Keys to Making Herbal Wellness More Accessible
MAKE IT YOURSELF
There are so many herbal products, new ones popping up everyday! But if you can’t buy them, that shouldn’t mean you can’t have the same benefits! One of the first herbal products that I made was a baby wash made with oats and chamomile – because I couldn’t afford to buy the store bought version… so I made it myself.
Making herbal remedies like infused oils, bitters, tinctures and fire-cider can take a long time… but NOT a lot of effort! Really, the hardest part about making these types of remedies – is being patient enough to wait 4-6 weeks for the herbs to infuse.
And the biggest benefit of being self-made – is that you can afford to fill your home with an abundance of wellness products.
FOCUS ON CULINARY HERBS
Yes something like Kava Kava is amazing at soothing body aches. Orris Root Powder smells amazing in facial blends. But these herbs are obscure. And if an herb is hard to find, or too expensive to buy – the good news is that nature gives you lots of options!
Often the most accessible herbs are those used for cooking and seasoning, they’re easy to find, and less expensive to buy.
Think about rosemary, fresh mint, thyme, ginger… they’re some of the BEST REMEDIES for soothing muscle aches, boosting circulation, reducing inflammation, easing anxiety, protecting yourself from free-radicals…
GET IT FRESH, DRY IT YOURSELF.
When you focus on culinary herbs, it’s easy to get a big bunch of herbs at the supermarket, farmer’s market, garden bed… and dry them yourself at home. You can use a dehydrated or air-dry them.
This preserves the herb, so that you can then use it in LOTS of different ways.
And there’s no comparison to freshly dried herbs! Its so vibrant, and aromatic and flavor. So for less money, and little effort – you can stock your pantry with the best quality herbs – dried mint, and rosemary, ginger and basil – and you’ll have basically an entire collection of wellness for skin, body and mind… right at your fingerstips!
